All the bolts, beams, and support that go into a bridge are what balance and hold it together. When it’s done all these parts work together to support cars, trucks, and the bridge’s own weight for years to come. Believe it or not, your bra is a feat of engineering also. It has to support your form, while bracing against your ribcage and making sure not to upset the delicate balance that we refer to as comfort. A bridge doesn’t also have to be soft, smooth, shaping, and sexy like a bra does! There’s a lot of pressure on all of the parts of your bra, but when you find the right one, well, it should do all the work and you should get all the credit.
Here’s a look at all the components of your bra that work together to make you look and feel good!
1) Gore - The center of the bra, this should sit flat against the body because if it digs in or sits away it will disrupt the fit around. It can either connect to the cups or to the “wings” (#4) which we call a “Full Frame” (in the picture above it connects to the cups).
2) Cups- these can be molded (no seams), molded cup (foam cup underneath) which can be paired with seamed cover or a molded cover for a seamless t-shirt bra. The shape of the cup dictates the shape of the underwire and vice versa.
FIT TIP: If you’re full figured or petite you might have a bad feeling about padding but try styles labeled contour, these have a soft stretch and less padding to give you shape while not adding bulk.
3) Underwires – The “shallow” curve on a plunge does not equal the support of the “U” shaped curve on a balconette or full coverage. The amount of control that the wires have depends on how much they “encompass” the breast tissue.
FIT TIP: If you’re a fuller figure make sure your underwires encompass your breast tissue without digging in or leaving too much room. This will be a major part of your support and comfort.
4) Wings- These can connect to just the cups or the cups and the gore in a “full frame” bra. They provide around the body support. Along with the underwires, the gore, and the hook and eye they create the stabilizing tension around your body that is then balanced by the straps’ and cups’ vertical tension.
5) Straps- The thickness, material, and stretchability of the straps affect how they sit on your shoulders and the level of comfort in the lift you get.
FIT TIP: If you are a fuller figured woman, look for rigid or non-stretchable straps in the front with stretch in the back for adjustability. If a strap stretches along the full length front to back that’s less supportive for fuller figures.
6) Strap Join- This one is pretty obvious, where you strap joins your bra in the back and the front is a major part of how tension from the weight of breasts is distributed.
FIT TIP: Another tip for fuller figures, look for a “Ballet” or “Leotard back” the weight will get distributed or balanced by your connection in the back. The leotard back as seen below will be far more supportive than a strap that joins along only one quarter inch sewn into the fabric. Imagine hanging something by a thread taped to a wall vs. a nail or a screw. Which do you think equates to the below?
7) Rings/Slide- If the straps are the beams that make up the vertical support of your bra, imagine the rings and slides as the hinges. You need them to create an adjustable back so that one bra size can fit different body types/heights.
8 ) Hook and Eye- This is the final hinge in the around the body support of the wings.
FIT TIP: You should always first start the bra on the last hook and work your way tighter. Elastic loses its ability to return so each time it stretches it doesn’t go quite back to its original size and shape, having the slight adjustment lets you combat that over time.
